The phytocomplex of Zanthoxylum piperitum (L.), LiftyLOX CROP®-G, is the focus of the study titled “Biotechnological Phytocomplex of Zanthoxylum piperitum (L.) DC. Enhances Collagen Biosynthesis In Vitro and Improves Skin Elasticity In Vivo“, published in the renowned journal Pharmaceutics (2025, 17, 138).
The study analyzes the activity of the phytocomplex obtained from Z. piperitum plant cells on skin health, with particular attention to collagen synthesis, extracellular matrix stability, and resilience to cellular stress. Z. piperitum, commonly known as Japanese pepper, belongs to the Rutaceae family and has been traditionally used in Japan, Korea, and China for its medicinal, cosmetic, and culinary properties. Biologically, it exhibits antimicrobial, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory activities.
CROP® Technology for Standardized Biotechnological Ingredients
The phytocomplex was developed using Aethera Biotech’s patented CROP® technology, a biotechnological platform ensuring highly standardized ingredients, independent of seasonal and environmental variability. By selecting the optimal culture medium, a Z. piperitum cell line rich in lignans and free of alkylamides was obtained.
Anti-Aging Efficacy of Z. piperitum Phytocomplex
The phytocomplex has been studied as a novel cosmetic ingredient for the prevention and treatment of aging-related skin damage, a process characterized by the reduction of collagen and elastin fibers, which are responsible for skin firmness and elasticity.
The following results emerged from in vitro and clinical tests:
- Increased pro-collagen I synthesis: The phytocomplex does not affect elastin production but stimulates pro-collagen I synthesis, contributing to the maintenance of skin structure and compactness.
- Modulation of MMP-1 and TIMP-1: It influenced the levels of MMP-1 (an enzyme responsible for collagen degradation) and TIMP-1 (its natural inhibitor), mimicking aged skin conditions under immunosuppression.
- Regulation of LOX expression: It enhanced the activity of lysyl oxidase (LOX), a key enzyme in collagen cross-linking, even under cellular stress conditions.
- Effect on collagenase activity and antioxidant properties: It demonstrated mild antioxidant activity and stimulation of collagen synthesis, providing promising premises for enhanced overall collagenase activity.
- Improvement in skin elasticity and deep hydration: After six weeks of treatment on 30 women, a +1.4% increase in deep hydration compared to placebo was observed, along with significant improvements in skin elasticity and roughness, particularly in the décolleté area, one of the first regions affected by skin aging.
The biotechnological phytocomplex of Z. piperitum confirms its potential as a promising ingredient for anti-aging and dermoprotective formulations. Its ability to modulate collagen synthesis, increase LOX expression, and protect cells from stress, combined with selective collagenase inhibition, makes it ideal for improving skin firmness, elasticity, and structural integrity, particularly under aging or skin stress conditions.
Read the full publication: https://www.mdpi.com/1999-4923/17/1/138
