Our phytocomplex of Perilla frutescensReSILEMcare CROP®-G – is the protagonist of the study “Formulation and Physical Characterization of a Polysaccharidic Gel for the Vehiculation of an Insoluble Phytoextract for Mucosal Application” published by the scientific journal Polysaccharides and developed by the collaboration between Aethera, the University of Padua (Department of Pharmaceutical and Pharmacological Sciences), and Unired s.r.l.

The study aimed to assess the compatibility of P. frutescens phytocomplex derived from in vitro plant cell cultures with different classes of rheology modifiers in gel and gel-cream formulations, looking at the current challenge of using insoluble plant ingredients in green cosmetic formulations.

Green cosmetics: the focus on sustainability

Growing consumer awareness of environmental sustainability issues is impacting the cosmetics sector. Nowadays, when it comes to purchasing cosmetic products, consumers are looking to make more conscious choices, not only in terms of safety and efficacy but also in terms of environmental sustainability. In response to consumer demand, so-called ‘green cosmetics’ have become a trending topic. These are cosmetics with active ingredients of plant origin that are natural and sustainable.

The technology: cell cultures for standardized phytocomplexes

Through in vitro cell culture technology, which is non-GMO and an alternative to traditional cultivation methods, it is possible to obtain highly standardized phytocomplexes free of factors such as variability, climate, soil, and by process free of contaminants, pesticides, and residual solvents.

Through the selection of a suitable culture medium, it was possible to obtain the phytocomplex of P. frutescens, characterized by a high and standardized content of rosmarinic acid and anthocyanins, designed to protect and rebalance the health of skin and mucous membranes, and particularly suitable for pre-and post-menopausal women with problems of dryness, irritation, and loss of tone.

P. frutescens: compatibility in gel and gel-cream formulations

One of the challenges in formulating green cosmetic products is to use insoluble plant-based ingredients, keeping them in suspension while creating a pleasant texture for the consumer.

The study, therefore, examined the phytocomplex of P. frutescens and its compatibility with different classes of natural polysaccharides in gel and gel-cream formulations. Aqueous dispersions were evaluated using different classes of rheology modifiers (synthetic, semi-synthetic, and natural), with the P. frutescens phytocomplex being added in tests that demonstrated a greater suspending capacity.

The stability of gel or gel-cream systems was then evaluated, focusing on the compatibility between the rheology modifiers and the P. frutescens phytocomplex, revealing as the optimal model a weak gel with a combination of tamarind seed and succinoglycan or scleroglutane, capable of holding the active in suspension and suitable for the formulation of mucoadhesive gels.

Read more about the full publication: https://www.mdpi.com/2673-4176/3/4/42